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Buzz Lightyear Costume
Jack Sparrow Costume
Jessie the Yodeling Cowgirl Costume
Mini Jack Sparrow
Renaissance Fair Phone Case
Robin Hood - Russell Crowe Edition
Soda Bottle Jet Packs
Club Obi Wan -
Indy Gear -
Replica Prop -
Dented Helmet -
Buzz Lightyear Costume
two year old
Buzz Lightyear Costume
The boots were made from a pair of size eight navy blue rubber rain boots.
taped off the "line" above the bottom stripe so that I could paint the sole purple.
Next I set up garden stakes so that I could paint the entire bottom portion purple
Next I taped off the purple so that I could paint the white portion of the boots
Both the purple and the white coats took about 3 to 4 passes to finally get the right shade and strength I was looking for. Then I masked off the green plate in the back and then the green "steel toe" color. Finished results look like this:
In the long run, this paint job won't work because the rubber isn't rigid. Spray paint is meant to stick to something that doesn't bend. If I crease the boots, you can see the paint start to "lightning crack." It would have been best to get white boots as a starter and then to only paint the green and purple on. But for a Halloween costume where he will only wear this 1 or 2 times in the month, I am not worried.
The Jet Pack is being made using a blue 1/2 camping foam mat from Wal-Mart. First I printed off the jet pack template and divided it into 4 major pieces, I traced those out onto the foam with a sharpie and cut them out with scissors.
A = two pieces to be glued together to make a sturdy back plate
B = two pieces to be glued together and then glued to part A to begin adding dimension.
Gluing everything together with a sponge brush and this Contact Cement from the hardware store
Keeping everything flat
C, D, E, F parts
After "A" and "B" were glued together, it was time to add the smaller pieces
C and D are "mirror images" of each other and glued on top of the A/B base.
And last glued on parts "E" and "F." Now I will just let it dry overnight to keep it flat and make sure it gets super dry.
To get rid of the "stacked sides" look, I bought some white posterboard and cut it into measured strips and glued it to the sides.
The tape is just to hold it in place while the glue dries...
The last part will be to make a concoction of elmer's glue, caulk and water to "wash" over the entire pack to cover up discrepancies, and fill in a lot of the softness of the foam. In other words to make a "hard shell" exterior, or a "glue primer" so that I can get ready to paint it. The mixture feels like thick water, if I were to do it again, I might use less water. My advice is dump all the elmer's glue in and mix in a small amount of water until you get it how you want it, and then start adding your caulk, as it thickens keep adding water until it's a fluid paste. I ended up going back over it several times to fill all the holes in the foam. Sometimes I used straight caulking for rough patches, other times I sprayed spray paint or clear coat on it, just to give it a second surface and then I went back over it again with the glue wash.
Now starting to add some color
For the purple parts it was easier to paint the top "triangle" and to cut the bottom "oval" out of the fun foam. There has been a lot of bleed over from the two bright colors so another coat of white is in order for touch ups.
Here is a test-fitting to give you an idea of the scale
My wife and I found the Jet Pack labels at the
(made by Mr Sinistar) and then she "designed" the exhaust ports with Photoshop.
Danger / Jet Exhaust
She had some extra room so she made a label for his Halloween bucket.
Painting the wings on the sides
Cut a chest plate template from paper and then traced it on the blue foam.
I am going to use an Apple cider cap (backed with blue foam) for the big red button.
I am going to use modified emory boards for the right side "voice" buttons. First, I will glue them together and then color them and then adhere them to the finished chest plate.
The only problem with the severed emory boards is the "line" they leave after you glue them together. So what we did was trace each one on cardstock, and then cut out the templates. So we will glue the cardstock covers to each one so that when we go to paint, there will be a nice smooth surface.
I painted the entire chest plate green - just to get rid of the blue color and to test how well the foam would hold the paint. This is not going to be the final color of the chest plate. I also painted the 3 voice buttons and the wing activate button.
I am actually going to use the fun foam again. I traced the camp mat chest plate onto the fun foam and cut out a new top layer.
The next parts to making this happen were:
gluing the fun foam cover to the camping mat
cutting out the purple under armor straps (fun foam)
cutting out a white under armor base that the green chest plate will sit on (fun foam)
measuring the spaces reserved for the decals and printing them out on sticker paper
Nothing is glued down in this picture, it was just us "eye balling" what we had so far.
After we glued down the velcro straps and some extra touch ups, it looked like this
Glued everything down and added the white background to the "space ranger" logo. The more I touch the white, the more dirtier it gets, it makes me worry about lasting all the way until Halloween.
I found these plastic cups
So I sprayed them both white and painted the top border green.And began adding
My L.E.D. light came in the mail from a fellow RPF member. This will go in the other gauntlet to act as Buzz's lazer
Unfortunately I had to remove the outside housing on the laser, and then I made a small hole in the plastic gauntlet.
I attached the battery housing by making a foam pocket and then gluing that to the inside of the cup.
Here is what a test run looked like when we were finished.
We bought all of our yardage as "t-shirts" from a bargain t-shirt store.
We traced a pattern using a pair of my son's pants and cut out a template.
My wife sewed it up and added a black waistband.
Cut out 15" strips of green fun foam (and 2 fun foam circles) and super glued them to the base of the pants. I used a djembe drum for a mannequin.
Completed right leg looks like this:
We bought a white turtle neck from Wal-Mart ($3) and then bought a black men's t-shirt from the cheap t-shirt store to use as our yardage. We then got some one inch upholstery pipping from Joanne's. My wife then made "pockets" for the pipping in the black shirt yardage and shoved the pipping into it to make the accordion style waist that Buzz has.
For the two shoulder emblems we printed them out on iron-on transfer paper
NOTE: remember to print them out in reverse (we forgot one time) and second, your transfer has to be super flat. Tiny sleeves have tiny seems and creases that will ruin the transfer. Another option is ironing on the transfer to some scrap white fabric and then making "patches" to adhere to the sleeves. We tried transfer labels from HP (hated them) and then tried
and they worked perfect.
After ironing the emblems on the sleeves we attached strips of velcro to the front and back to hold the armor.
So the last T-shirt we bought (we got 3 colors for $10) from the cheap T-shirt store was purple. This is for the hood.
Putting all the elements together after a full day of sewing.... priceless...
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